ZNA So Cal

It’s our pleasure to bring you articles from the experts on koi selection and koi raising.

PLEASE give the system time to load the photos we have included - you’ll be glad you did!

You’ll find the following topics in these articles:

Koi Health

Selecting Winning Koi

Selecting Koi by Gender

How to Select Tategoi Asagi

Buying Baby Koi-Part I

Baby Koi- Part II - HOW TO INCREASE YOUR KNOWLEDGE OF KOI

Baby Koi- Part III - Quality vs. Bloodline and Brand name

Baby Koi- Part IV: Quality

(watch for more to come!)

Koi Health
By Alan Stein, KHA

Summer’s here and that means growing season.  This is the prime time to feed often for maximum growth.  It is also time to watch your water quality.  To grow large Koi we feed high protein food often to provide the amino acids needed for growth.  The Koi produce ammonia which is detrimental to health, and pheromones which limit growth.

Pheromones are the chemical signals that tell Koi in overcrowded conditions to stop growing.  Pheromones and chemical pollutants are best controlled by regular water changes.  A 10-15% weekly water change is much less stressful to your Koi than a 50% monthly change.  Some people automate their water changes using drip irrigation nozzles designed for gardening to constantly add a small amount of fresh water to their pond, allowing the overflow drain to get rid of the excess.  Water changes below 15% generally do not need to be dechlorinated.

Let’s talk a little about ammonia.  Ammonia is the primary waste product of protein metabolism and is part of the nitrogen cycle.  The nitrogen cycle is the energy source for life on earth.  Here’s how it works:
1)    Protein is broken down into amino acids that are used for growth and energy.  The waste product is ammonia.
2)    The ammonia is broken down by bacteria into nitrite providing energy for the bacteria.
3)    The nitrite is broken down by other bacteria into nitrate providing energy for these bacteria.
4)    The nitrate is utilized by plants (and algae) for growth and is released as nitrogen into the environment.
The cycle operates the same on human waste in a sewage treatment plant, horse manure in your garden, or Koi waste in your pond.  So, why worry about a little ammonia in your pond?  In the wild, one fish may have millions of gallons of fresh water to dilute its waste.  Not so in your pond.  Think of it this way, the waste from a pack of dogs roaming a 10 square mile area will have little effect.  The waste of the same pack of dogs confined to your bedroom will become toxic very quickly.  High concentrations of ammonia will destroy gill tissue, just as breathing ammonia will destroy your lungs.  High concentrations of nitrite will block the Koi’s ability to transport vital oxygen in its blood, similar to carbon monoxide poisoning in mammals.  That’s the simple version. There are other factors involved including pH, oxygen saturation, fish load and water temperature.  I will discuss these in a future article.  The ammonia and nitrite in your pond is treated by your “filter”, essentially a small sewage treatment plant more properly called a bio-converter.  It houses the bacteria that convert ammonia to nitrite to relatively harmless nitrate.  Don’t wait for you fish to die to determine if your bio-converter is functioning adequately.  Buy a nitrite and an ammonia test kit and test your water.  There are two types of ammonia test kits.  Some dechlorinators such as Amquel or Ultimate can affect the test, so talk with your dealer about selecting the right test kit.  Also remember to replace your kit yearly, an outdated kit will give you false negative results.  While you are at your dealer, buy a copy of “Koi Health and Disease” by Eric L. Johnson D.V.M.  This is a must.  It is the definitive owners manual on Koi.

OK, that’s enough chemistry for now.  Go sit by your pond, feed the fish and enjoy an iced tea.

Here’s some future topics:
1)    What is pH, and why should I care?
2)    Parasites and other icky things growing on your koi.
3)    Poop eating bacteria and holes in your fish.
4)    Why little box filters do little good.
5)    Why can’t I put a half dozen jumbo Koi in my 500 gallon water garden?
6)    Your friend, the microscope.  It’s not just for kids anymore.
Which topic would you like next?  Any suggestions for other topics?  Please let us know!

Selecting Winning Koi
By Chai Taevanitcharoen

Selecting Koi by Gender
By Chai Taevanitcharoen
How to select tosai for Male or Female
No one can select tosai for male or female 100% of the time. Some tosai will show the characteristic of male or female 100% but some won’t, and some may be neutral fish. As your knowledge improves you will have better percentage of selecting male or female.

These are some guide lines when you are selecting male or female tosai. If you master all 4 you will be able to select male or female 99% of the time. Pictures are included below the notes to show what is being described.

Signs it’s a  MALE
1. Male develop color early (finished)

2. Beni and shiroji are rough, yellowish, or the body white but the head yellowish, especially the mouth, nose and cheek area. If the fish have all of the above, 90% male.

3. Pectoral fins are thicker. The primary and secondary bone look darker white color. If you have 20/20 eyes sight you may see little stars in the pectoral fins. If you are good at this technique, It would be almost 100% male selection.

4. Anal opening looks tear drop shapped, look long and sunk in. 90% possible male.

Signs it’s a FEMALE

1. 80% female won’t develop color early ( finish)

2. Beni and shiroji soft and shiny, the shiroji even from the tip of the mouth, cheek to the tail. If the fish have all of the above, 90% female.

3. The pectoral fins are thin and look translucent. The primary and secondary bones look lighter in color, and won’t have little star in the pectoral fins. If you’re good at this technique, you’ll get almost 100% female. Note: Nisai pectoral fins look different.

4. Anal round and rise up, it does not sink in. Possible female 99%

Extra notes:

1.     I didn’t talk about rubbing, touching the pectoral fins for the roughness, lumpiness of  male fins because you need sensitive
skin on your fingers and a lot of practice. I tried and tried I never felt it, even though I saw the little stars (lumps) in
pectoral fins.
2.     To milk the fish for the sperm, the fish has to be two years old or older. I don’t want to confuse the hobbyists because
the article is for the Tosai fish.
3.     I didn’t talk about the roughness ( sand paper like ) of male cheeks because that feeling is for two years and older fish.

How to Select Tategoi Asagi
By Chai Taevanitcharoen

Guidelines for Selecting Tategoi Narumi Asagi Tosai:
1. Has to be female. A male will get too dark and the head will turn yellow and/or cloudy  as it grows older.

2. Select the lightest blue possible, without dark net-like scales. There is a chance it will be female and it will develop net like scales in 2 to 3 years.

3. Both pectoral fins must have at least full 3/4 red fins. If the pectoral fins are completely red, it is better. The color will retract as the fish grows. It should have red dorsal, anal, and tail fins for the perfect Asagi.

4. Both cheeks and eyes should be red and should not pass the eyes onto the head.

5. A red stomach and throat is better because as the fish grows larger the red will grow upward. Make sure the fish has good red on the pectoral fins and cheeks. The fish that has red up to the lateral line is acceptable. The red that passes the lateral line is not desirable at this age.

6. Dark red fins are harder to find but, they are usually male. The “burning red” will do just fine.
Note. Male fish show its beauty early - 95% of the time.

7. Make sure the fish’s scales line up nicely and are equal in size on both sides of the fish. Symmetrical scales will be perfect but impossible to find.  Most deformed scales will be on top of the neck where the scales start and at the tail section.  It is harder to see when they are small.

8. A clear white mouth and nose is better than a cloudy mouth and nose. The white in these areas should be clearer than the head.

Remember, these are guidelines to selecting Tategoi  Asagi.  By following these guidelines, I have had much success.  I hope this will help you select Tategoi Asagi.

Following are some photographs to help you identify top quality Asagi tosai.

BUYING BABY KOI-Part I
By: Chai Taevanitcharoen

Before we learn about quality, body conformation, and the pattern of the fish, I think we should learn to understand the most important part of the fish, body deformities.  Deformities affect excellent fish, good fish, mediocre fish, and fish of no value.  Some deformities make a fish not worth keeping at all.  It is easy to learn and observe, but we often miss them.  It doesn’t matter if you want to have a pond fish or a show fish; a fish with a deformity is less pleasing. I, along with most experts, would not consider it a pretty fish.  Every deformity has a certain degree of importance.  Some deformities only decrease the value of the fish, while others may make the fish be of no value at all. Below is a list of serious deformities.

DO NOT BUY THE FISH IF:
1. The fish is missing any part of its anatomy.  (Ex. pectoral/dorsal fins, eyes,     etc.)
2. The mouth, head, tail, spine, or upper and lower lips are crooked. (It is hard to see when the mouth or head is black, especially in utsurimono which are often deformed.)
3. The fish has dents in its head.  (When the head is black, touch it to make sure.)
4. The fish has any tumors.
5. The tail joint curves up.
6. The tail folds to one side only.
7. The body is too short.
8. The fish has a bowl or curved-out gill plate.
9. The fish has any fins, which are crooked, missing, or disproportional.
10. The head is too short or pointed, or the mouth is too small or too pointed.
11. The pectoral fins are too small,
12. The fish is missing whiskers.
13. The fish makes a jerking motion while swimming, or when it starts to swim.  Also check to make sure that the fish does not swim for a short time then sinks to the bottom to rest.
14. The fish is sick.

Some items on this list are less important than others. Some of the flaws listed above may disqualify a fish form competition, other may not if the fish has outstanding quality, body conformation, and pattern.  Remember the bigger the fish, the easier it is to spot deformities.  The smaller they are, the harder it is to see.  Especially with fish 4″-8″ and what you cannot see from above.

TIP: How To Spot Deformities On a Fish:  First, using the dorsal fin as a center divider, divide the fish into two parts, left and right.  Draw a straight, imaginary line from the tip of the upper tail all the way to the lip of the fish.  Fish often move, which may cause you to lose focus, so always remember to use the front of the dorsal fin as a guideline.  Look from the lip of the fish slowly toward the tail; comparing the each curve from left to right.  Compare the curve of the mouth, head, the curve of abdomen all the way to the tail joint.  The left and right side should be the same shape and curve.  If any curves are not symmetrical, it is most likely to be a deformity.

Now turn around- this time start form the opposite end.  Compare the body curves, left and right, all the way to center of the lip.  Keep changing starting points.  The more you change direction, the better because sometimes fish movements may cause small deformities to go undetected.  As your eyes improve and you improve your understanding of what to look for, spotting deformities will come easier. After you’re sure about body deformity, check for deformities and size of the whiskers, eyes, and pectoral fins. When the fish is in the bag, check the underside of the fish.  Once again, using an imaginary line and divide the fish in half.  Continue checking for deformities, using the same method as previously described.

When we look at the tail, by itself, it normally stands straight up and down.  When fish are nervous or trying to swim it might fold slightly from right to left.  Let the fish relax and it’s tail will straighten out.  Although the fish will not “pose” and hold it’s tail still, you will be able to determine it’s straightness as the fish relaxes and stops trying to swim frantically away.  If the tail always stays folded to one side and never folds back to the opposite side, then there is a possibility that a tail deformity exists.

TIP:  When Picking Out A Fish: When you see fish you like, put them in a tub, then take one out put it in other tub and look at them one at a time, taking your time to observe.   If many fish are together at once, you may get confused.  Most of us get excited when we see fish we like, and most often, it’s the pattern of the fish, which attracts our eyes.  Mistakes may occur when you get too excited about a fish that looks so beautiful under the water.  Sometimes when too many people are looking to buy fish at the same time, it will rush you into buying a particular fish before someone else takes it and you’ll forget about the list.  Don’t forget to use it and before you say, “I’ll take it” or “Bag it,” ask the dealer to put the fish in a bag for a final check.  Check the under side of the fish and the lateral line for a curved body.  Check the mouth, ventral and anal fins, and the lower part of the tail.  You’ll be surprised by what you can find during a “final check.”  Without a final check, the diseases and deformities may go unnoticed.

Don’t let pattern, quality, or body conformation cause you to overlook deformities. Take your time when buying that next special koi.

HAPPY KOI HUNTING!

BABY KOI PART II
HOW TO INCREASE YOUR KNOWLEDGE OF KOI
By: Chai Taevanitcharoen

1) Get knowledge from books or magazines.
Try magazines such as Rinko or Koi USA If you are a member of the Z.N.A. Koi Club, Nichirin is a great resource.  For beginners, try the Manual to Nishikigoi, by Dr. Kuroki.  After reading the articles, use the koi pictures as learning tools.  There are many pictures of winning koi from different koi shows around the world.  While looking at these pictures, imagine yourself as the judge.  Compare the fish.  For example, compare a grand champion, which, is 75 Bu.  Look for any 75 Bu fish, give or take a size. Ask yourself if you agree or disagree with the judge.  Be sure to ask yourself why it is a grand champion and why the others are not.  Which fish did you like better?  Try to find the differences in quality, body conformation, and pattern.  What are the differences in the quality and pattern of fish that compete in Japan’s big koi shows and other koi shows around the world?  Ask yourself, “If I can only buy one of these fish in the magazine, which one would I buy, and why?”  Consider these reasons for purchasing the fish, quality, body conformation, pattern, body structure, and fins. In the back section of some magazines, fish are often for sale.  Some have the price and size labeled.  Imagine yourself as the buyer.

Which one would you buy and why?  Also ask yourself, if you can buy only one, which one would rather buy; a fully developed fish or a tategoi?  This way, you can train and improve your eyes at the same time.  You may come up with questions for experienced koi-keepers or judges.  If you look at pictures without comparing and thinking, the magazine will become just a magazine; not a learning tool.  Breeders and dealers learn by watching fish day in and day out; culling, comparing, and grading the fish.  As they watch the fish progress they learn why some fish never grow to be show champions and why some do.  They also learn why some colors appear and disappear.  This is what makes breeders and dealers so knowledgeable.

**Warning:  When assessing koi from pictures, the details of the picture are not easily noticed.  The quality of color, clarity of sashi (the front, leading edge of the pattern), kiwa (the sharpness of the pattern’s edge), and tobi hi (red spots), especially around the abdomen, and deformities are often difficult to see.

2) Visit Koi Shows
Visit koi shows as often as possible.  When you’re at the koi shows don’t just look from tank to tank.  Once again, imagine yourself as the judge and analyze each winning fish, from Grand Champion, runner up, best mature, best young, best baby, best in size– all the way from the first place fish to the third place fish– each category and each size.  Determine which fish looks the best or worst (from your point of view).  Compare and contrast fish, especially quality of color– red, white, black, the kiwa, and sheen (in Hikari family), etc.  Also, compare body conformation and ask yourself if you agree or disagree with the judges.  If possible, ask the judges, senior Koi keepers, and trustworthy dealer’s questions.  Remember to keep an open mind.

3) Visit knowledgeable koi keepers’ and dealers’ ponds.
If you only see and compare fish from your own pond, you won’t realize that there are better and worse fish out there.  Comparing your fish to other people’s fish will reinforce learning and increase your desire to own quality fish.  Visit koi dealers as often as possible.   You will see many types and qualities of fish in one place.  Try to pick out a fish with the best quality of hi, black, white, sheen, fins, body conformation, body structure, and fins in each category, but not necessarily pattern at this time.  Concentrate first on the quality of color.  It is not necessary to purchase the fish.  The more often you visit and the longer you observe the better.  Looking at 100-500 fish in each tank and trying to compare the best and worst quality fish in each tank will help increase your knowledge.  Your greatest challenge will be the ability to choose a koi with the best and worst color, body, and fins quality among a group of koi of varying categories.  Koi knowledge will come to you sooner than you think.  If you’re willing to learn, a dealer is the best place.

4) Get involved in Koi shows.
Be a bag handler or fish handler during the judging. Listen to the judges discuss how one Koi is better than another.  You will get the opportunity to see many excellent koi and meet knowledgeable koi keepers.

5) Buy fish for study.
This is the best way to learn about koi and Tategoi.  Always compare, observe, and ask questions from knowledgeable koi keepers and dealers and judges.  Buy fish to compare the differences in body structure, conformation, color, size and shape of all fins.  Notice the “SHEEN”- how shiny it is, sashi, the sharpness of kiwa, etc.  Learn how to distinguish between good-quality and poor-quality black, red, and white.  Check your fish’s progress and changes month by month, year by year.  This is what’s involved in learning and understanding quality and body conformation.

Each type of fish has its own characteristics of color and the way it changes, so be sure to observe color change accordingly.  Buy at least three yearlings of the same variety your choice from different dealers.  Do not spend a lot of money on any fish.  Take pictures of each fish before you release them into your pond.  Have a data sheet and record what kind of fish it is.  Record the colors- the white, red, black, etc.  Also record the shape, size, and any other information you decide to compare.   Seeing how these fish develop will help you understand how that variety changes over time. After 1-3 years of studying these fish, sell or trade them, especially if they are not very good fish.  Buy a new type of fish and keep repeating the cycle.  Remember the words “compare” and “observe” as keys to your knowledge.  No book in the world will teach you better or faster than your own experiences.

6) Improve the quality of fish in your pond as your eyes improve.
Get rid of your fish when you think you bought a better fish. Improve your eyes by observing better quality fish.  You may get too attached to your fish, but in order to improve your eyes and control population, you have to get rid of it!

7) Take your fish to shows.
Don’t be embarrassed because you don’t have a winning fish.  You’ll be surprised how much knowledge you will gain by comparing your fish to other fish at the show, including the winning fish of the category you had entered.  Ask judges or knowledgeable koi keepers questions.  Comparing and asking questions will help you understand what it takes to win at the show.  Don’t let yourself believe money will buy the trophy.  Sometimes, if there is only one fish in a category, it is an automatic first place winner for that category.  In these cases I would strongly suggest you investigate why your fish won. Your fish may have placed because there was no other fish entered in this same category, despite your fish having poor quality or a bad deformity.

I personally don’t agree with this award method because most owners of winning fish will not learn to improve his or her knowledge of koi.  In their excitement they fail to see a “sympathy” award.  This is not the way to learn how to appreciate koi. ….Warning– at the show, when you ask questions of the judge, you may not get a straight answer because the judge may be afraid the owner of the fish will get offended.  Don’t put the judge on the spot.  Try to approach the judge in an inquisitive manner.  Learn to be sport about wining and losing.

Breed koi.
If you have the room and the time, try to breed koi yourself.  Notice how baby koi’s color appears and disappears while it’s developing.  Compare the similarities and differences of quality of the same offspring.  Understand it may be difficult to breed a trophy fish.  You will learn, appreciate, and respect Nishikigoi a lot more, because it is so difficult to find high-quality fish out of one breeding.  Understand that offspring of the same parents will not always have equally good or bad qualities

9) Price of koi

Don’t let the price of koi stop you from searching for more knowledge.  An old timer once said,  “The more you know, the less you spend on a quality fish.”  Many times low cost fish ($10-$25) win first place.  Occasionally, best in size at some of the biggest koi shows in the US.   Recently, at one of the major koi shows, a fish that cost the owner $450 competed with an $8000 fish for Grand Champion. Only because of the finish of the hi (red), the $450 fish lost out.  Instead, the fish won “Best Mature”.  I assume the owner of $450 fish was really joyful because his knowledge of koi paid off.  To the koi keeper that can afford more expensive fish, the old timer said, ” The more you know, the less disappointment you’ll have.”  Some people may spend a lot of money on a fish that’s worth something today, but  may not be worth as much tomorrow.  Remember, in the “koi world”, we learn new things about koi everyday.

.                                                                                                                   HAPPY KOI HUNTING!

Baby Koi- Part III - Quality vs. Bloodline and Brand name
BY: Chai Taevanitcharoen

Decisions, decisions, decisions.  Are you going to buy that fish that you’ve been staring at for the past half-hour, or not?  Suddenly, a dealer walks by and says, “This koi was bred by Dainichi, Sakai, Ogata, etc.”  Your curious eyes turn toward the dealer as you ask him to tell you more about that “brand-name” koi.   He goes on to tell you about its bloodlines, whether its Dainichi, Sadazo, Monzo, Matsunosuke, or Jinbei, and so on.  He keeps looking over your shoulder with a smile as he says, “Good eyes, Good eyes!”  Your heart starts to pound and race, your hand reaches into your wallet, and with a big smile, you say, “Yes…. I’ll take it!”

Many people think that big brand names and good bloodlines are signs of an excellent quality fish.  So, those are the qualities they search for when selecting tatekoi (future fish).  How certain is it? 100%, 75%, 50%?  Brand name or bloodline fish don’t come with a guarantee, but they sure do come with a price tag.

Some people buy baby koi already fully developed in their beauty. Some people buy baby fish and raise them to be trophy fish.  Some just want fish for their pond.  Whatever the purpose of the baby fish that you’re going to buy, I’m pretty sure you’re hoping that the fish’s color and pattern would stay the same as it grows bigger. But, hobbyists face great disappointment…not because the fish died, but because the fish lost its color.  It may look worse from the time you bought it or never improve even after years of feeding it with an expensive color enhancement diet and fancy expensive water filtration systems.  Many of us still repeat the same mistakes because we still get hooked on brand names, bloodlines, patterns, or the bright color of the fish, Before you rely on Brand names, Bloodlines, Patterns, and Luck, first ask yourself, how much do I know and understand about “Quality”. Can I distinguish between a low, medium, and high quality fish?  Do I know how a baby fish can change and develop?  Because each type of koi has it own characteristics and it’s own way of changing. The more you know about “quality” and it’s “characteristics”, the better your odds in picking out a future champion fish. Or, at least your fish will hold it’s beauty longer and the color won’t seem to disappear right before your eyes.  I’ll have article about Koi Quality and Koi Characteristics at a later date.

Whether the koi came from an excellent bloodline, well-known breeder, its parent fish or “brothers and sisters” were grand champions, a koi without “Quality” is never going to make “Champion” and may just deteriorate faster where water management conditions are poor.

But in reverse, with back yard bred koi you usually don’t know who bred the parents or what bloodlines together will make a champion show fish. So, all that matters is if that fish has “Quality”. You might understand better if you look into the Hikari family [metallic fish].  If a fish does not have a quality sheen [that is, if it's not shiny] nothing in this world could ever make that fish have a beautiful sheen.  Even if you have the ideal water conditions or try to feed it special foods, or you know the brand name and bloodline, if the fish has no sheen, IT NEVER WILL!

My point now becomes obvious. Quality should be the first priority when picking out baby koi. Pattern, body conformation, body structure, brand name and bloodline, are important to certain degrees and should be considered accordingly and depending on your purposes of raising.

Popular patterns are maruten; three steps, four steps, five steps, and inazuma [lightning]. A heavy pattern doesn’t look good on small fish, but may look good when the fish becomes large.

The rules of pattern are:

1) White gill plates, cheeks, nose, & mouth

2) No red below the eyes or on the cheeks; red should be central on head

3) White pattern cut/break across the neck or shoulder,

4) Red should go down to but not father than the lateral line,

5) White at the tail joint,

6) No red in the eyes, on any fins or tail.
Keep in mind many excellent fish do not meet all those rules.

Body Conformation and Body Structure are a little harder to see and understand in baby fish. Just remember some basic rules; big mouth, big head, thick tail joint, wide shoulders, height [look sideways at fish], round pectoral fins, and no deformities. A skinny baby fish may have a beautiful body conformation as it grows older.  Not many hobbyists in America pay much attention to a baby koi’s body conformation and body structure. But Japan’s hobbyists use this heavily as guideline to choose baby koi.  They believe a baby fish with a big bone structure increases its’ chances of becoming a female or a Jumbo.

Brand name and bloodline are widely used around the world as factors to determine Tategoi. But as mentioned before, this can lead to misunderstanding and disappointing outcomes. Consider brand names and bloodlines if your intent is to achieve Jumbo size or when questioning the development of the color, especially red, white, and black. Many times, baby fish have a poor white, a light orange-red, sinking black (black not yet developed), or very little black, or poor body structure.  Hobbyists would then use brand names and bloodlines to increase percentage of success. This the way I understand it.

In the koi world, the major colors are Red, White, Black, and Metallic Sheen. If you can learn to distinguish between the low, medium, and high quality of these colors you will be able to achieve an understanding how to choose “Tategoi” among the many types of koi. Also, these four colors will help you to understand how most types of koi were bred.   Many hobbyists try to learn from the bloodline and brand name point of view.  For me it was too confusing, I had very little success, and had difficulty finding reliable sources.  I gave up along the way.

Instead, I concentrated on learning:
a) RED - Was it thick?, thin?, or evenly colored?  What about kiwa?, Sashi?
b) BLACK - Was it “lacquer”?, dull?, superimposed on what color?, was it a thin or thick sinking black?, What about                    kiwa?, Sashi?
c) WHITE - Was it a soft white?, snow white?, any pink intrusion?
d) METALLIC - Sheen?, shiny? dull?, and was it from the tip of the mouth to the tip of the fins and tails?
These most important factors will provide a foundation that makes it easier to understand  “Quality”.

As you master these four concepts you will be then be able to learn about patterns, body structure, body conformation, bloodlines, and brand names.  Understanding all these concepts will eventually lead to the art of “TATEGOI”.

Well…. There are a lot of ways to learn about koi Quality and Characteristics. As I use this method, I find myself learning more and more.  I too, want to have successful tategoi.  How about you?………….

This article is based upon personal observations, research, and past experience regarding “Tategoi”.  Much of this information was learned by trial and error, from Senior Koi Keepers, Koi Dealers, and Koi Breeders. I am not a Koi Expert; just a koi lover.  My intentions are to provide and promote knowledge of “Tategoi” as well as make Koi-keeping fun and affordable.  There is always the possibility of my ideas being wrong and I apologize, in advance if I have offended any Senior Koi Keepers, Koi Dealers, or Koi Breeders.  My thoughts and opinions may differ from others’ point of views.  My intentions are not to discredit the wisdom of those more experienced or expertise than I.  I will be glad to speak with you on a more personal level.  Your comments and questions are warmly welcomed.

HAPPY KOI HUNTING!

Baby Koi- Part IV: Quality
By: Chai Taevanitcharoen

When purchasing anything, you look for certain qualities.  When purchasing real estate, it’s LOCATION, LOCATION, and LOCATION!  When purchasing koi, it’s QUALITY, QUALITY, QUALITY, and QUALITY; I like to call them the four Q’s!

During “koi-talk”, the word “quality” is always the main topic.  Often, people learn from different sources and develop their own opinions.  Everyone understands and looks at quality in different ways, from breeders to hobbyists.  I believe that breeders are most knowledgeable in recognizing quality.  I find myself trying to learn their techniques.  How do they develop an eye for quality?  They cull fish by the millions, watch them grow and change, and pass on their knowledge from generation to generation.  Their process of learning quality, trial and error, is no different than ours, but because they are able to observe far more koi than any hobbyist can dream, they are able to understand true quality better than we can.  Dealers sell many different grades of koi at different prices.  It is up to the hobbyist to learn to tell them apart.  Once you learn enough about quality, you’ll understand that coming home empty-handed from koi shopping is a good sign of progress.

Koi prices are based on many things.  Quality is the most significant factor in the price and comes in different levels.  If you don’t quite understand the word “quality”, and rely on brand names and bloodlines as a sign of an excellent fish, the outcome could be very disappointing.  Size is the next most important.  The bigger the fish, the more expensive it is, as long as it has quality.  The smaller the fish, the harder it is to predict their future, determine sex, and body development.  Smaller fish also tend to die easier when sick.  Gender is also popular among hobbyists.  Hobbyists seem to favor females because they grow faster and develop more body volume than males.  Females also usually have a better white.  At koi shows, male fish often have difficulty in beating females in the larger class.  Brand name and bloodlines add to the price to koi.  The art of choosing tategoi successfully is being able to see what the breeders see.  Every koi-hobbyist’s dream is to have enough knowledge to be able to distinguish between future champion fish and average fish.

Since quality is the most significant factor in price, it is the first thing we should learn about.  To my understanding, these are the qualities of koi, what I call the four Q’s!  They are quality of COLOR, BODY, PATTERN, and FINS.

1.  QUALITY OF COLOR:
a.    Red – Even color from head to tail and every scale top to bottom.
The harder it is to see the out line of the scales the better, in other words the thicker the red.  The evenness and thickness of the red is more important than its hue.  Uneven color in just two or three scales may be an early sign of unstable red.
b.    White - Soft, shiny, translucent white is desirable.  Even color from head to tail, with no pink intrusions.
c.    Black - When possible, the black should be assessed on white.  Black on red is less elegant and more difficult to evaluate.  When fully developed, each scale should be evenly colored center to edge and have a lacquer like shine.  It should be difficult to discern the edges of the scales, and the pattern must have sharp edges (kiwa).  Blurred insertion at the front of the black (sashi) is desirable.  Top quality black will not fade or camouflage when the fish is startled.  It is hard to determine the quality of undeveloped black.
d.    Sheen - For Hikari, the shinier the better.  Ideally the shine should be consistent from the mouth to the tip of the tail, including the nose, cheeks, gill plates, and all fin tips.
e.    Kiwa - Kiwa is the edges of the entire pattern. The front edge may look blurry due to sashi.  The back edge and lower end of the pattern should have sharp edges and same color tone throughout the pattern.
f.    Sashi – Sashi is where the colored (red, black, yellow, brown, etc.) scale is inserted under the white scale at the front of the pattern, giving it a blurry appearance.  Sashi is normally one to two scales wide.  Tategoi should have sashi.  Doitsu (non-scale fish) will not have sashi.    As the fish grow older, the sashi gets smaller.
Poor quality of color:
a.    Red –
1)    Black specks or spots (shimi).
2)    Uneven color.
3)    Indistinct kiwa.
4)    Scale edges that are easy to see.
b.    White –
1)    Pink areas.
2)    Uneven color.
3)    Dirty appearance.
c.    Black –
1)    Camouflaging.
2)    Black uneven within the scale.
3)    Dull color.
d.    Sheen-
1)    Dull (non-metallic) around the nose, gill plates, and fin tips.

2.  QUALITY OF PATTERN:
a.    White to the nose, no further than the eyes
b.    No red below the eyes or on the cheeks,
c.    White pattern cut/break across the neck or shoulder.
d.    Red should go down to but not father than the lateral line.
e.    White at the tail joint.
f.    Popular pattern Marutan (round head pattern); Sandan (three step), Yondan (four step), and Inazuma (lightning).
g.    Black on white is preferred to black on red (showa and sanke).
Poor quality of pattern.
a.    Shimi on the fish.
b.    Scattered sumi (black) on Taisho or Showa.
c.    Too many black stripes on the fins, including tail, of sanke.  One, two, or three stripes are acceptable.
d.    Tobi hi (red spots on one or two scales.)
e.    Red in the eyes, fins, or tail.
f.    With showa and shiroutsuri, both pectoral fins are white or one white and one with motogoro.
3.  BODY QUALITY
a.    Smooth symmetrical curve from the tip of the mouth to the tail on both sides when viewed from above.
b.    Big mouth, big head, wide shoulders, thick tail joint.
c.    Tall height.  (Look at the fish from the side, at eye-level.)
Poor quality of body:
a.    Pointed mouth.
b.    Head too small, short, or large for the body.
c.    Body is too short.
d.    Flat cheeks or too bowed.
e.    Tip of the gill plate curves out or bowed out.
f.    Tail joint is too skinny or too small.
4.  FIN QUALITY
a.    Smooth, round, curved pectoral fins of even size.
b.    Straight dorsal fin.
c.    Round, even-size anal fins.
d.    Tail fin- top and bottom halves must be even and straight.
Poor quality of fins:
a.    Pointed pectoral fins.
b.    Front bone of pectoral fin has kinks or uneven curves, or not the full length.
c.    Pectoral fins too large or too small for the body.
d.    Uneven pectoral, anal, and tail fins.
e.    Splits in any fins, often seen in dorsal and split in the center of tail fins.  (Sometimes, split fins heal in the future.)
f.    “V” in the tail fin is too deep.

Any fish with serious deformities is considered a low quality fish.  Some deformities are more significant than others are.  Every deformity has a certain degree of importance.  Some deformities only decrease the value of the fish, while others may make the fish be of little value at all.

When judging the overall quality of small fish, the color and pattern are most important, followed by body, and fins.  In large fish the color and body are most important, followed by pattern, and fins.  The intangibles, imposing appearance and elegance must also be factored into the equation.

Reading books and articles is a basic part of learning about koi.  So are looking at fish and asking questions, but I find that comparison is the best learning tool.  Having a knowledgeable teacher is always a plus.  For example, how many of you have had someone actually bend a fish to show you that one red was better than another?  Or flip the fish upside down to show you the fish had mouth or head deformities?  There’s a lot to learn about koi.  Each variety of koi has different characteristics.  You should learn one type of koi’s traits at a time.  Try to observe the best of each type and compare it to the worst.

This article is based upon personal observations, research, and past
experience regarding “Tategoi”.  Much of this information was learned by trial and error, from Senior Koi Keepers, Koi Dealers, and Koi Breeders. I am not a Koi Expert, just a koi lover.  My intentions are to provide and promote knowledge of “Tategoi” as well as make Koi-keeping fun and affordable.  There is always the possibility of my ideas being wrong and I apologize, in advance if I have offended any Senior Koi Keepers, Koi Dealers, or Koi Breeders.  My thoughts and opinions may differ from others’ point of views.  My intentions are not to discredit the wisdom of those more experienced or with greater expertise than I.  I will be glad to speak with you on a more personal level.  Your comments and questions are warmly welcomed.

HAPPY KOI HUNTING!